Used Golf Cart Buying Checklist: 15 Things to Check Before You Pay

Shopping used golf carts for sale can save you thousands compared with buying new, but only if the cart you bring home actually runs the way the seller says it does. Buying a used golf cart is mostly about checking the expensive parts first: the batteries (or engine), the frame, the brakes and the paperwork. Print this checklist or pull it up on your phone when you go to see a cart.

Before you go: research the listing

A little homework saves wasted trips. Before you meet a seller, ask for the make, model, year, serial number and whether it is electric or gas. Ask how old the batteries are and whether the cart has been titled and registered as a street-legal low-speed vehicle (LSV).

Compare the asking price with similar carts near you. You can browse golf carts for sale on CartPiko and check our golf cart price guide to see whether a number is in the right range.

Buying a used golf cart: the 15-point checklist

Work through these in order. If a cart fails one of the big items (batteries, frame, brakes, paperwork), that is either a deal-breaker or a reason to negotiate hard.

Identity and paperwork

Find the serial number. On Club Car models it is usually on the passenger-side kick panel under or inside the glove box, or on the frame behind the accelerator. Other brands put it in different spots. Make sure the number matches what the seller told you and that it has not been scratched off.
Confirm the model year. The serial number usually encodes the year. Sellers sometimes list the year a cart was refurbished or first titled, not the year it was built.
Check title and registration if it is an LSV. A street-legal LSV should have a title and a 17-character VIN. In Florida, for example, a golf cart converted to an LSV must go through a state inspection and get a VIN assigned. If the seller says "street legal" but has no title, treat it as a regular golf cart.

Batteries and power (electric carts)

Read the battery date codes. On many flooded lead-acid batteries, the code is stamped on a terminal. U.S. Battery, for example, uses a letter for the month (A = January) and a digit for the year. A pack that is five or six years old may need replacing soon.
Look for corrosion and low water. White or green crust on terminals, loose cables or dry cells in a flooded pack are signs of neglect. Lithium packs should not need water at all.
Ask what kind of batteries it has. A lithium pack adds real value. A lead-acid pack near the end of its life lowers the value by the cost of a new set. Our lithium vs. lead-acid guide explains the difference.
Test the charger. Plug it in and confirm it turns on and starts charging. Chargers are not cheap to replace, and lithium packs need a charger with the right profile.

Engine (gas carts)

Start it cold. Ask the seller not to run it before you arrive. Listen for hard starting, knocking or heavy smoke, and check for oil or fuel leaks underneath.

Frame, body and running gear

Inspect the frame. Look under the cart, especially around the battery tray. Steel frames rust, and acid spills speed that up. Heavy rust or patched welds near suspension mounts is a serious problem.
Check the tires. Look for uneven wear, which can point to alignment or suspension issues, and for dry-rot cracks in the sidewalls.
Test the steering. With the cart parked, turn the wheel. A lot of play before the wheels move suggests worn steering parts.
Look at the suspension and any lift kit. Lifted carts are popular, but ask who installed the kit. Sagging leaf springs or clunks over bumps mean repairs.

The test drive

Drive it uphill and at full speed. A healthy cart should pull steadily. Hesitation, jerking or a sharp drop in speed on a hill can mean weak batteries, a worn motor or controller trouble.
Test the brakes and parking brake. The cart should stop straight without grinding, and the parking brake should hold on a slope.
Check every light and accessory. Headlights, turn signals, brake lights, horn, backup alarm, mirrors and seat belts. On an LSV, these items are part of what makes it street legal.

Red flags that should make you walk away

The seller will not tell you the serial number or it has been removed.
The price is far below similar carts and the seller is in a rush.
The seller wants a deposit by wire, gift card, payment app or crypto before you see the cart.
The seller cannot or will not let you test drive it.
"Street legal" claims with no title, VIN or registration to back them up.

The Federal Trade Commission notes that scammers often ask for payment methods that are hard to reverse, such as wire transfers, gift cards and cryptocurrency. For more, read our guide to golf cart scams and how to avoid them.

Negotiating and paying

Use what you found. If the batteries are near the end of their life, get a quote for a replacement set and ask for that amount off. Worn tires, a broken charger or missing lights are all fair points to bring up.

When you agree on a price, meet in a safe, public place or at the seller's home in daylight, and bring a friend. Get a written bill of sale that lists both names, the date, the price, the serial number (or VIN) and the words "sold as is" if that is the deal. If the cart is a titled LSV, make sure the seller signs the title over to you, then take it to your local tax collector or DMV office to transfer it.

Frequently asked questions

How old is too old for a used golf cart battery pack?

Lead-acid packs often last up to about six years with good care, so a pack near or past that age should be priced as if you will replace it soon. Check the date code stamped on the batteries rather than taking the seller's word for it.

Should I bring a mechanic to look at a used golf cart?

If you are spending several thousand dollars and are not comfortable checking batteries, brakes and steering yourself, paying a local golf cart shop for an inspection is cheap insurance. Many shops will look a cart over for a modest fee.

What paperwork should I get when buying a used golf cart?

At minimum, get a signed bill of sale with the date, price, both parties' names and the cart's serial number. If the cart is titled and registered as a low-speed vehicle, you also need the title signed over to you.

Is it safe to pay a seller before seeing the cart?

No. Never send a deposit, wire transfer, gift card or crypto payment for a cart you have not seen in person. The FTC warns that scammers commonly ask for these hard-to-reverse payment methods.

Selling instead of buying? You can list your cart free on CartPiko with no commission.

Sources

Selling a golf cart?

List it free. No fees, no commission, private messages.

List your cart free